Pondicherry Beach

One late morning we passed the Pondicherry beach while letting us ahead to Point Calimere in Nagai District; the beach looked deserted during that day of the time last March. Guess it was a weekday, and being sunny no one were left around and the way it looked (neat and clean) impressed to shoot few shots. This was the beach shaken up during the Thane cyclone that struck couple of months early to our visit then, seems taken a quick recovery to our surprise and it looked even better than our early visits.

My first time to the Pondicherry beach was at the beginning of this millennium and that time it was only rocks left behind the corridor platform and we could enjoy the drizzle splashed by waves while sitting on the platform. Now the beach was extended into the sea, creating a corridor on the seawall to keep away the erosion and building some sand area for beach visitors. This was my third time in the beach to just pass unlike early spending some time, the beach left quite with no sound of splashing waves and sight of some sea birds at distance.

The Promenade beach, as popularly known as Pondicherry beach on the Beach Road is one of the main boulevard of the city, where one could find heritage buildings and offices of the Union Govt. including the State Secretariat.  The beach extends for 1.5 km along the shore, has the statue of the father of the nation – Mahatma Gandhi – is the center of attraction.  The four-meter tall statue was beautifully adorned by eight granite pillars, surrounding a shrine like shelter.

Being close to the old harbor, the beach holds a pretty sight of the pier extended into the bay. And the old lighthouse on the beach lane, opposite to the Mahatma Gandhi statue is a wonderful old tower installed by French East India Company in year 1836. This old lighthouse was the first modern lighthouse on the Coromandel Coast, served the mariners for almost a century and half before proudly become a monument under the Union Territory Administration – a fitting tribute to its valuable services.

The old lighthouse

Maa Kolam – a cultural identity of Tamil!

Maa Kolam is one of a cultural identity of Tamil people and drawing a beautiful as well colorful designs at the doorstep during festival seasons, will fascinate everyone with a smiling face: there’s a flat mate in our apartment who pass comments usually encouraging us when we do something traditionally and seeing our pot kolam on Pongal, he says that it remind his hometown. Doesn't it make sense and smile knowing it felt someone nostalgic? Whether it is in India or abroad, Kolam stays as a stable distinct feature of Tamils; with various forms wherever they are settled. Kolam becomes a reflection of individual skill of Tamils and basic faiths of goddess those believe in such. And even we don’t have big thought about kolam that unites the diverse features of life, exposes the artistic talent of homemakers.

There isn’t a specific period when the practice of Kolam took shape, but a traditional kolam is drawn on rice flour and its posture has changed on various stages from plain white to colorful state now. Next to rice flour, the Kolam is drew on a powder grind from a specific white stone and later the colors or flowers are added to enhance the beauty during the festival season. The specific of drawing kolam is believed to bring auspicious to home and by doing so we also keep our house and streets clean and doorstep looks artistry. The kolam is based on a calculation of dots, which has various methods like straight and cross dot, lines and flower patterns become a support in life esp. for women in solving many loopholes in family. So it seemed as an essential for women practicing kolem which helps in developing their mindset and optimizes their existing talents and noble cause.  

Kolams are drawn on various states of India and variety in styles. For example: the Athipoo Kolam of Kerala and Rangoli drawn in north Indian states are equally noted for the kolam drawn in Tamil Nadu.  Besides Alpana of West Bengal, Sanji of Uttar Pradesh and Rangavalli Muggu in Andhra Pradesh. Athipoo Kolams were drawn with flour first and later decorated with flowers which mostly used are marigold, oleander and chicken crest flowers. Rangoli is a colorful kolam, drawn using salt to increase the color saturation and prevent spreading of colors in wind and moreover the salt is comprised as pride of wealth.

Not only during festivals, Kolam drawn as a daily activity of Tamil Nadu: we are one of the countless houses that drew Kolam everyday at the doorstep and during the Tamil month of Margazhi a special attention is given to Kolam. At this time of month, conducting kolam festivals are specific in Tamil Nadu and unlike many other festivals celebrated during this month, a festival for Kolam is only held at here. In Margazhi everyone used to draw a big kolam in front of their homes and using this, people in their area or street create a team and conduct contests and gifts are presented to those well drawn. And it does not only stop there, but by this way people are motivated to disclose their talents and encouraged for an enthusiastic challenge.

Another reason to draw kolam with rice flour was because it giving life to the tiny species on surface, esp. ants use the softly grind-ed flour as their favorite food to survive. During the festival of Pongal that begins with the Tamil month of Thai, is a wonderful time to sight very colorful kolams indicating the rice boiling over the pot, sugarcane and turmeric images taking place besides the kolam. And the Pongal pot is kept to boil over at the header part of the kolam, before worshiping the sun. The same follows with the Mattu Pongal (bull pongal), where kolams are drawn with images of bulls, calves and bells and drawing kolam during the period of Pongal is a fascinating thing as well showcases the pride and happiness of family. And writing pongalo pongal in between the kolam conveys the wishes to everyone passes through the street and certainly kolam has become a lasting part of the beautiful Tamil culture.

(The photos on the pongal kolam where drawn by my mother, during the occasion.)

YMCA Building

Last year I come around the core area of Chennai, the so called Mount Road, Central and Parrys and got to capture some remarkable buildings and landmarks of Chennai; and one among them was the YMCA Building. Young Men’s Christian Association building is an architectural marvel located on the NSC Bose road in Esplanade; and it was the first building to be built in Madras at the request of then Governor Arthur Have-lock in 1900.

YMCA Esplanade is the oldest branch of the Madras YMCA, established in year 1890 by an American Secretary Mr. David McConaughy in the South Indian State of Tamil Nadu. YMCA is a Jaina-Jaipuri style of building, began its work in 1895 was completed by a donation of $40,000 by John Wanamaker, the then Post-Master General of the US. The building was designed by G.S.T Harding and it is one of the oldest heritages of Chennai – the then Madras.

The New Jerusalem Church – Tranquebar

The New Jerusalem Church is one of a beautiful attraction of Tranquebar, built in the year of 1718 by Bartholomaeus Ziegenbalg, the first Protestant and Royal Missionary from Denmark to India. The church which was renovated lately to its original structure, without alteration, is yet to complete 300 years of built.

The architecture of the church is an interesting synthesis of indigenous Indian features and traditional European church building style.

The church situated on the King’s Street is a pretty follow on Town Gate; and the white coated building with red tiled roof is an enthralling sight. The church built like a holy cross in shape, holds a small cemetery within its compound dating back to 18^th century; and the Danish missionary and founder of the church Ziegenbalg is also buried in the churchyard.

Footnote:

Ziegenbalg died at a young age of 37, is the first to set up ever printing press in India at Tranquebar and published studies of Tamil language and Indian religion and culture in 1711. Ziegenbalg's prime cause is to promote Christianity in India, but his way of moving with society earned him respect of the people of all religion. (Info from the Hindu)

Ganesha and My Childhood

Picture from my archives

During my childhood days, I used to wish visiting this Ganesha carved on the rock by a small mound in Mamallapuram – a town famous for rock cut sculptures and a UNESCO WHS near Chennai, while we visiting our relatives house there. The rock cut Ganesha is very close to the Karukathamman Temple – one of our families commonly worshiped temples, in the west of the town; so, many of our visit to Mamallapuram witnessed worshiping at the temple and for me to check the Ganesha climbing on the rocks  beside the temple.

More than the rock-cut Ganesha, the quiet and pleasant environment and a small adventure of climbing on the rocks and following path track are the main that attracts me to this place; and there are also two rock cut shrines on the mound belong to 7^th century, named as Pidari Ratham and Valiankuttai Ratham. (Ratham is a word means Chariot in Tamil). Other than these, we could find a trace of red on the rocks for which my grandma used to say, ‘that it was the bloodstain of an evil man who was killed and dragged though the rocks by the goddess for ill-treated the people of the town.’

This photo was taken by mom in 2006, during one of our visit to Mamallapuram and today no one is allowed on this mound or checking the Ganesha, since archeology department has put fence across the area to protect. I really love visiting this temple, not in devotion but just for the isolation and pleasantness provide by the pond side with trees for shadow and benches to sit relax and cherish.

Ganesh used to be my favorite god in childhood and my mom used to tell till date that my hands come closed wherever I see Ganesh then.  Today the totally perception is different and I have come to believe there no god exists but I don’t deny the fact that I had great faith on god once, unconsciously. In no way I interrupt others belief on god and I respect their faith and wishes from heart for their plea get answered in some ways!

Danish Fort - Tranquebar

It was noon when we reached Tranquebar –an Old Danish colony, in the Nagapattinam district of South Indian state Tamil Nadu on an early summer month of March. Today know as Tharangambadi which means ‘land of the singing waves’ host some fascinating sights on colonial building, Danish fort and church and pretty beach of Coromandel Coast. 

(Fort Dansborg Click all images for enlarge)

Tranquebar is a place on my waiting list for very long time and what attracted me to this town was the Fort Dansborg, built along the beautiful Coromandel Coast in the year of 1620 A.D by the Danish Royal Navy Commander Ove Gedde. Tanquebar was once a flourishing trade center which continued to remain up to 19th century under the control of the British; and from the year 1977 the Danish Fort was protected as a monument by the Tamil Nadu State Department of Archaeology. 

We were invited into this town thought a picturesque arch gateway and one of the landmarks of Tranquebar, holding a caption of ‘ANNO 1792’ from the inside out marks the year it built. The gateway is flourished one side by the images of a lookalike king holding swords and separate swords on top end, with a dome bearing No.7.

Fort complex

The gateway leads to the main street of the colony is very small to allow vehicles only comes under LMV (Light Motor Vehicle); and both sides of the street hold pillared buildings, a colonial style of construction. The Fort Dansborg is on the southeast end of the colony and the fort is a square complex with rampart walls on four sides, which has inner side rooms used as warehouse, prison, kitchen and barracks.

A prison inside the fort

The fort has a two storied building facing the sea, which is also the main building of the fort, holds warehouse and prison to the ground floor has a vaulted roof. The first storey of the building which was once a church and lodging of the governor, senior merchants and chaplain, was now a museum exhibiting antique things collected from the period of colonial and Danish settlement in Tranquebar.

We reached the first storey of the fort through a ramp and fascinated to see the pretty blue sky and sea creating vibrant waves! The courtyard or rampart in front of the sea facing fort building has a wonderful view on the vast blue sea and sailing boats; which is also a platform to reach fort museum, and holds two iron cannons focusing on sea. Due to steps I couldn’t check the museum, but got few pictures captured by cousins and meanwhile I enjoy checking the exterior of the fort and children playing on its shore and wandering about.

Cannon pointing the sea 

There are more to share on the Tranquebar, Fort, Museum ect... So I will do it on further posts. 

Buildings on Mt. Road

Last year I come across the heart of Chennai – the Mount road or Anna Salai, after long time and I got to capture few shots on the buildings that exist as one of landmarks and heritages of Chennai.  We took a drive on Sunday which is the best time to take this stretch that’s almost busy throughout the week since it’s an arterial road and even it was little crowded that day, we managed to capture few photos on the buildings from the movie car, that follows below.

LIC Building

LIC Building doesn’t need an introduction in Tamil Nadu as well throughout the country, but for others information, LIC (Life Insurance Corporation) is the Chennai’s first skyscraper and tallest building in India, when it was inaugurated in 1959. The 14 story building serves as the southern regional headquarters of the LIC India and the building marked the transition from lime and brick construction to concrete columns in the region.

The building was designed by the London- based architects on the lines of the UN Secretariat in New York City; but the withdrew of architects from the construction after 4 years of its  commence was overseen by Chennai based architect L.M. Chitale. The location on the Mount Road to construct the building was identified by Chidambaram Chettiyar, the founder of Indian Overseas Bank and the United India of Insurance, for his group’s headquarters. 

Spence Plaza

Spencer Plaza is the oldest shopping mall in India and a renowned landmark of modern Chennai (Madras). Originally built during the period of British Raj in-between1863-64, the Spencer Plaza is the first Departmental store in the Indian subcontinent, comprising India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka.

The building established by Charles Durant and J. W. Spencer was one of the biggest shopping malls in South Asia when it was built and the original building that destroyed in fire in year 1985 was an example of Indo-Saracenic style of architecture. The present Spencer Plaza was opened in 1991 on the same site, measuring about 10 acres and spread across a million square feet built in three phases with parking space for 800 cars.

The plaza is one of the major hangouts for the Chennaities.

Aguchand Mansion

Agurchand Mansion is a red brick stone building that date back uncertainly more than a century; and it is near opposite to the famous Spenser Plaza. The building is built by an old Madras family called Agurchands; and today the building holds quite commercial shops on the ground floor, whose number of hoardings occupies much space of the building facade, but there are no details about the Mansion, whether it’s running or not.

Tarapore Towers

Tarapori tower’s is half a km from LIC building and the large sign hosted on its terrace was one of the attractions on Mount Road. This is the first public LED display come up in Chennai, over 25 years ago or certainly longest time in survive and it usually displays time and temperature of the city.

Our drive doesn’t stop with Mount Road, and we also come across Parris and Central Station, capturing few more buildings along.  I will post on them in further posts...