Ponniyin Selvan (It's not about the Film) !

Know what's the trend in South Indian social media right now? It's Ponniyin Selvan. In short, PS-1. 

When I first saw the PS-1 commercial on social media, I immediately thought of anything similar to India's PSLV (The Polar Satellite Launch Vehicle). 

Ponniyin Selvan is a well-known classic historical novel in Tamil authored by Kalki that requires no introduction if you are from Tamil Nadu, India's southernmost state. It is a timeless novel that was serialized for three and a half years before being published in five volumes in 1955; now, after many attempts, the book has been adapted into a film by acclaimed filmmaker Manirathnam! 

It is impossible to shrink a five-series novel (a storyline that lasts 8 months) into a three-hour film, so the production team opted to divide the movie into two parts, with PS-1 being the first.   

I have never read such an inspiring and suspenseful historical novel. As captivating fiction, the book tells the story of the greatest king of Tamil Nadu, Raja Raja Chozan, also known as Ponniyin Selvan, and Aruilmozi Varman. I loved reading this book, or more precisely, I enjoyed traveling through it, and it takes us to numerous locations within the Chola kingdom a thousand years ago. 

I had wanted to read this book for a long time. However, I made it in 2022, and I picked the English translation of this mammoth work over the original in Tamil, which I am convinced is more emotional. I  like to read Ponniyin Selvan in Tamil to get that experience again. I've been fascinated by this story for a few months and have become familiar with the characters and wish it could go on forever since I was eager to know what happened next; the novel never lags because the scene varies. 

Even though the book is about Ponniyin Selvan (whose regime the Chozha Empire reached lands beyond the high seas), my favorite character is Vandhiya Devan, the true protagonist who carries the story on his shoulders. Mostly, it was through him we glimpse the beauty of the great Chozha country, and his role in missions was adventurous and exhilarating, adding to the fantastic visions I had throughout the subject. The narration and facts of the Chozha Empire and its clan are fascinating to read and convey the magnificence of the Chozha dynasty. However, pride comes from knocking down a country for revenge, and fighting against other kingdoms only highlights an empire's valor unless the country is in the hold of grief or oppressive rule. 

I am more engaged in this book than in any other book I have read so far, and I was obliged to reread a lot of phrases, paragraphs,  chapters, or scenarios to experience the feel or feel of the content. When I was in the latter half of the series, news about PS 1 started circulating in the media; I strictly avoided everything relevant to the film from entering my consciousness (at least until I finished reading the book) to avoid distractions from the air-drawn imagination I drew. 

Some of the places I visited in Chozha country, such as Thanjavur (the capital of Chozhas at the time of the story), Kumbakonam, Nagapattinam, and Kodikkarai, influenced my imagination. I fantasize about erasing all forms of development and replacing them with wilderness and greenery dotted with small towns and villages and contrasting them with palaces. Every time the story centers on Thanjavur, the fortification and the gateways to the Big Temple and the moat and the river that runs beside it make a magnificent mixture of fort and palaces.

The version (of Ponniyin Selvan) I read was rendered in English by Varalotti Rengasamy; I chose him because when I looked for the book, only he had the entire series of five, so I could read the novel without stopping. I truly enjoy the author Kalki's simple and direct narrative and approach to constructing a plot about the bravest and most powerful kingdom ever known in Tamil Nadu. And crowning it all is the sacrifices of Ponniyin Selvan, according to the author, are the essential component of the story that inspired him to write this magnum work. 

I'm so invested in the book that I believe I could visualize and recall every aspect of it if I decided to sit back and draw scenes without reading it, which is the novel's strength. Please read the book if you haven't already. If you don't want to read, you can watch the upcoming film (releases on Sep 30) instead. But, whether you watch the movie or not, I wish everyone read Ponniyin Selvan. 

Ponniyin Selvan and Kodikkarai

It's been ten years since I visited Kodikkarai (aka Point Calimere), yet the memories are still vivid in my mind. Furthermore, the novel I am currently reading, Ponniyin Selvan, has a lot of connection with the place in its second and third volume, which overlaps with the time of my visit, precisely ten years ago. 

Ponniyin Selvan is a renowned classic historical novel in Tamil written by Kalki, which needs no introduction if you come from Tamil Nadu, the southern state of India. As captivating fiction, the novel tells the story of the greatest king, Raja Raja Chozan. I love reading this book, or more accurately, I enjoy traveling through it, and Kodikkarai is one of the key stops on this journey; that transports me through nostalgic memories and into a thousand-year-old fantasy. 

At the pristine shore of Kodikkarai

I envisage a dense forestation once in the already widespread scrub forest of Kodikkarai,  home to many blackbucks and chital deer, wild horses, boars, and foxes, where the courageous Vanthiya Devan follows the insane girl Poonkuzali, who tricks him and saves him from quicksand. 

Kodikkarai is a vast network of backwaters that includes the Great Vedaranyam Swamp and the Cauvery Estuary; it opens up to dry evergreen forests, mangrove forests, and wetlands where quicksand is common. 

Based on their discussion in the book, I can imagine how wild it should be to have tigers and leopards in the Kodikkarai forest a thousand years ago. They used to say that where there are deer, there will be tigers, but now in Kodikkarai, the deer are safe from everything but the cunning foxes. 

The 9th Chola lighthouse ruin was surrounded by water during high tide.

While I sat along the pristine and powdered sand shore of Kodikkarai, besides a half-cylindrical ruin of the Chola's brick and mortar lighthouse, I had no idea that I was sitting at a historical landmark of the Chola dynasty. And that our Ponniyin Selvan (Raja Raja Cholan) arrived in Sri Lanka from here.

About a thousand years ago, the Chola lighthouse was a tower-like structure where firewood is lit atop the tower to indicate the ships and warn about the shallow seashore.

Ponniyin Selvan is a 5-volume novel, and I've finished the first two and am now reading the third, which seems to be more intense and all pointing towards Kodikkarai; my imagination is taking new sights and vistas of the shore. The Kadikkarai coastline is shallow for a few kilometers and has stripes of sandbanks to keep ships away, and only tiny boats can access. 

It was a magnificent sight to see hundreds of birds take off and land on a sandbank by the sea, as well as a herd of deer leap across a long stretch of ground and disappear into the bushes. It was a scene that struck my mind's vision like a flash of lightning forever. The forest department permitted safaris within the forest up to the Chola lighthouse to watch the wildlife.

Kodikkarai is a nearly right-angle turn in Tamil Nadu's coastline in the delta region of Nagapattinam. It houses wildlife, a bird sanctuary. Kodikkarai is a 10-kilometer drive from Vedaranyam and takes us past extensive salt pans on one side and woodland on the other. 

A white heron taking off

Every winter, millions of birds from all over the world visit Kodikkarai, and it is popularly known for the Greater flamingo. During our trip to Kodiyakkarai, we stayed at the forest guest house, close to the forest and the new lighthouse. And the suite allotted for us is named "Flamingo."

It was a beautiful experience to see deer and peacocks casually roaming around the guesthouse, and the rattle of peacocks was a rhythmic way to wake up in the morning. Since the guesthouse had a tile roof, we heard knocks at night, which was nothing but peacocks who enjoyed a stroll on the roof. 

Unfortunately, I could not share many photos from Kodikkarai, as I have saved the photos on DVDs, my new laptop doesn't have a DVD drive. Some of these photos are from my archiver, and those remained on the hard disk I have many photos of the wildlife, the beach, and the forest to share with you, but you'll have to wait till I buy an external DVD driver.

My Voting in Assembly Election and Vote Percentage

I cast my vote yesterday (April 6) for the 6th time in this lifetime since my first voting in 2009 general election in India. So far, I have voted in three general elections and three assembly elections each. So far, I have voted in three general elections and three assembly elections each. Though I earned the right to vote in 2003 and fetched my name on the voter list the following year, I started to vote only from the 2009 general election skipping the 2006 assembly election.

I started to use a wheelchair only in 2007, as before that, I could walk barely a few steps, so in that condition, I couldn't think of voting or visit the polling booth. My first polling experience is quite vivid, and I could still catch the images in memory when I look up or close the eyes, and it's the same booth I cast my vote in all the time. Though we shifted to different houses and addresses, my voting had always been at our native address, so it wasn't a problem each time, and I still use the voter ID I fetched for the first time - a b/w photo ID of me took in age less than 20.

We usually cast our vote in the afternoon to avoid the crowd and was in the same idea this time as well, but as my uncle insists, we polled in the late morning, and our polling booth was least crowded, so we quickly polled off. We were given gloves for the right hand after sanitizing the hands and masks made mandatory, and gladly everyone followed the rules despite the social distancing wasn't that satisfying.

The room allotted for us was smaller than last time, so they had to adjust the tables for my wheelchair to get close to the EVM (electronic voting machine), but still, it wasn't in a range I could reach; so, my father voted on my behalf on the symbol I already insist.

EVMs were started to use partially in India from 1998 to 2004, and from the 2004 general election, EVMs becomes a voting system in India in place of the ballot box.

Something that always annoys me after the polling was the question of whom I voted; though I don’t hesitate to say to whom I voted, those who inquire me don't open their mouth when it was their turn; and I don't care about it either; as they have voted at least than those who laze around complaining without doing a thing for the change.

Take the vote ratio in the capital Chennai; it is much lower than other districts in Tamil Nadu. We received less than 60% of the vote in the Assembly election, while the educationally and economically backward districts received more than 75% of the vote. What this really shows me is how indifferent and conscious we are to fulfill our democratic duty.

We (Chennai people) live cozily and get all the development and priorities in the first place, but we aren't even ready to vote in the election that takes place once in 3 or 5 years. People like me in a wheelchair could easily skip from voting, but I really wanted to vote not only because I like to do something for the society and to assert my right (at least this way), but also like to be an exemplar as well! I mostly choose my candidate from the individualistic notification for the volume rather than from the general manifesto his party or organization released to seize power.

Skywatch Friday

I feel good enough right now as I say goodbye to the setback of my health! A visit to pulmonologist last week has helped recovering a lot from cough and cold and also could sleep well laying straight and to left and feel relaxed to go through blogs but still haven’t checked many. Here I share couple of pleasant sky shots captured from the woodhouse balcony where I spent vacation with the families for a week last month.  I’m someone always look out for natural frames rather adding frames through Photoshop and here I got to crop the image to get the up and bottom frame of wood house’s porch top and rail. In-between the shadow of trees and mild blanket of clouds the blue sky glimpse pleasantly. 

P.s. The Ghats along the west coast of India is highly battled by rain and everywhere there’s flood and landslides to keep things and life at trouble. The Nilgiris in Tamil Nadu is witnessing historical rains with Avalanche records the highest ever in south India – 92cm in last 24 hours and 82cm a day before followed by 42cm on 6th August. The landscapes and roads all over the western side of Nilgiris were damaged and most of the dams were at fullest and already opened the shutters to prevent further flooding. I wish the situation turns normal soon. We are in need of water badly, but how could it benefit all when it downpour at this particular place alone? Many districts in north central Tamil Nadu is still at the grip of drought and Nilgiris become the wettest ever recorded history! Who could be blamed when nature plays the trick but we could not say it’s no man’s fault.

Linking this post with Skywatch Friday

BJP Won But Not In Tamil Nadu!

Congrats Mr. Modi and BJP! BJP (Bharatiya Janata Party) has swept larger seats in the parliament election and Mr. Narendra Modi as Prime Minister is continuing his office for 2^nd time. Though Modi have won and we had to accept the fact and while appreciate the efforts he put for the success, we can’t see it as the decision of entire nation. South Indian states almost swept against Modi and BJP which seems only a section of people want Modi or BJP and not the widespread nation.  A success is a success, whether we accept or not. North and Central Indian states had red carpeted for Modi and their reasons could be anything but certainly couldn’t sense a significant development was the reason for the successive of BJP or Modi. I haven’t great knowledge about the development of other states than Tamil Nadu, but I have ideas about the neighbouring states of Kerala, Andhra and Karnataka    where the influence of governing BJP is different.

Everyone knows that BJP is a religious party based on Hindutva concept but I believe the previous regimes under Vajpayee   weren’t serious taking forward the religion but had been reliable for people.  I think I don’t have the right to comment on states I wasn’t fully aware but coming to Tamil Nadu we have reasons to deny Modi and BJP. In last five years at office, I couldn’t see the Modi govt. promoting any significant projects or development on almost anything. I believe development is a progress happens any government comes to power, but the Modi’s govt. has any reason to continue in office, at least in the state of Tamil Nadu the things they are intend to implement where obviously against people welfare and wealth of state. Though different religious people live in Tamil Nadu, but nothing forces us from being united through the shade of one – Dravidian – and think on rationalism, couldn’t appreciate or invite a principle that impose anything against democracy. India is the largest democratic country and bringing all into a compression of saffron or hindutva is unwelcomed at any cost.

Coming to the state of Tamil Nadu, actor Kamal Hassan’s Makkal Neethi Maiyam (People Justice Centre) party has earned considerable votes to secure 3^rd place in the row of vote bank, even though they couldn’t win a seat in both parliament and by-election, sweeping an amount in short span of exists (14 months) is an unexpected twist that reveal people’s tendency for an alternate to the big leads – DMK and ADMK. My candidate or the person I voted R. Rangarajan IAS has led 2^nd with the number of votes the party’s candidates secured in the Parliament election and the 3 constitutions in Chennai witnessed considerable vote to the party. In Tamil Nadu, the opposition party alliance has swept all the seats from the state, except the 1 win by the ruling party which alliance with BJP, and it was an expected win even by common men as the almost state is against BJP or Modi and the ruling party doesn’t have an option rather going with BJP to continue their regime in Tamil Nadu. In worst case BJP govt. has failed in looking into the farmers issues and was accused to hold back the Tamil Nadu government in its control and make plans against the people to face this sweep out in TN.

Multi tasked legend, Kalaignar M. Karunanidhi!

An unavoidable senior leader of Indian politics and 5 times Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu, legend Dr. Kalaignar M.Karunanidhi’s demise on Tuesday, at age of 94, put the entire state at hold. Renowned as Kalaignar is an exceptional, outstanding expert in Tamil linguistic and his energetic and enthusiasm about the language is indefinable and no one could be accurate as him who has written prose to “The Universal Scripture or Universal Veda or Book of all” – Thirukkural, written by saint Thiruvalluvar about 2000 years ago. The whole state of Tamil Nadu came to a standstill on Wednesday, the day his funeral processions take place, saluting the last legend of Tamil people as mourn to death. I couldn’t do any other activity on that day rather staring at TV, watching an ocean of people from various shores (including Prime Minster Modi and many state Chief Ministers) giving their final respect to the son of Tamil, while resting down on the shore of Bay of Bengal!

No wonder Kalaignar is one of my inspirations for writing! I have read and heard that he would write even at 2 am and continue to write throughout night despite his old age, it would feel inspire. When I have something to write or feel inspired to write, I would say I have எழுத்து பணி (writing work) if someone ask me what r u going to do and I would say this having Kalaignar in mind. His writing and pronunciation of Tamil is such prolific and best witnessed among the generation of ours. He may demise now but the impact he created through linguistic, social reforms and rationalism is going to radiate eternally. Kalaignar’s political activities began at the age of 14, when most of kids like to spent time with friends and look out for fun, and from an adherent to country’s top leadership his journey isn’t an easy thing and that too without having proper education his rise to writing text on Sangam literatures is absolutely a wonder!

His peerless knowledge and intelligence is a doubt that anyone could gain ever and his experience and hardworking attitude (even at age above 80) at other hand become great pillars that anyone could seek support and motivates a lot to generations across. My late great grandmother is an ardent of Kalaignar - M Karunanidhi and she had voted only for him (and his political party DMK) all her life. She believed only Kalaignar could do welfare to people and sometimes argued with us in supporting her leader. She also gets anger if we change the channels whenever he was shown in television. My grandma and Kalaignar are same aged people and she died exactly 10 years back at age of 84. Kalaignar is highly celebrated for his finer scriptwriting; screenplay and dialogues that many have become enormous success as popular dramas and cinemas while it’s still could be a challenge for any actor to perform or pronounce such nicety words and sentences.

Kalaignar was the only Indian leader to head a party (DMK) for nearly 50 years constantly and to win all the assemble constitutions (he has contested) without fail. His life is full of vitality and I ever seen a man amazing like him who worked all his life restless (similar the words etched on his coffin) to enhance the Tamil community and implemented schemes to put forward the backward society and equality for women on all platforms. He’s an ardent follower of his mentors Thanthai (father) Periyar and Dr. Anna Durai and executed what all schemes, ideas and dreams they uphold for the people of Tamil Nadu. He implemented the law for widow remarriage, equal share for women in the property of their parents, all religious people to become priest and redefined the terms for transgender and physically disabled (perhaps he knows the pain of differently abled – what he referred to physically disabled – as he himself ruled the state from a wheelchair during his last tenure as chief minister and till he was hospitalised) and he also obtained many rights for the state that the other states too enjoy, e.g. he brought the right to host the national flag by the state admiration than the central.

The thing that fascinates me a lot about Kalaigar M Karunanidhi was his consciousness and strong willpower and healthy mentality. Truly amazing, except the last few years, his exhibition of memories is very powerful and profound for his age where forgetfulness is common. During his tenure and wellbeing he often appears on media and sent messages with such nicety to his people and for a leader with busy schedules it always amaze me how he able to retain each instance of past with record. His retention was something belongs to himself alone and one can’t even imagine living that long with such perceptions! Indeed we miss a multi-tasking legend, who took the supreme power (sun) as his emblem, to work beyond twilight hours and midnight to the welfare of the Tamil people aka Dravidian. He also lived as an identity of Tamil Nadu. Kalaignar is the only leader in Indian history to do politics along with all Prime Minister of Independent India and Chief Ministers of Tamil Nadu. Though some have personal frustrations on him (including me on certain things) but those aren’t matter in front of his achievements, administrations, passion on literature of Tamil and scriptwriting, level of energy and extraordinary memory power and diplomacy in decision makings and rationalism all makes him a gem, even he hide away in the darkness of death, he would twinkle until there’s light on earth.

What I have written is nothing but what I observed and what comes to mind right now… and he’s an era which can’t be confined into a post or coffin!

Lovedale ! Railway Station

It’s not easy for a wheelchair bound to board a train and traveling in a mountain railway is out of dreams but I always wish to visit at least a railway station of the century old Nilgiri Mountain Railway. Many movies have captured the beauty of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway and its picture postcard railway stations and smoky stream engines chugging out of the stations and making journeys through scenic mountains. Lovedale is a popular location for the climax scene in Tamil hit film Moonram Pirai. Last time when I visit Nilgiris in April 2017, I was intent to check any of the railway stations of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway and Lovedale was my prior.

How appropriate to name alike?  I simply Love this place...

As I took an unusual road to Ooty, I passed Lovedale before entering the town and found it wasn’t far away from the town, so we passed without stopped there with a plan to return later leisure. Making it certain, the cottage we stayed was close to the Lovedale and opposite to the road leading there from the Ooty-Coonoor main road. We stayed at a place called Fun City, on the outskirt of Ooty and it is a place formerly seems to be an amusement park which later turned into property development and many cottages and homestay keeps emerging out there. Lovedale is just 6 minute drive from there and it was almost afternoon when we checked the lovely (Lovedale) railway station.

Yours truly waiting for his train haha..

I had no idea about the timing of the train’s arrival and passing the station but we learned only after we reached there that this was the time of the arrival of a diesel engine with passengers from Ooty. Actually we packed the lunch when moved out of the homestay and wanted to make to the railway station after having the lunch, when we already parked at the station parking. It was 1.30 pm and the station guard told the train will arrive in 10 minutes, so we postponed the lunch and waited for the train. Meanwhile I took some lovely photos around the station where we are the only visitors and various aspects of the station attracted me.

The pretty blue lovedale railway station

Lovedale, like all other Nilgiri railway stations, continue to operate from its original structure and it shares similar architecture as well. Coonoon being the junction railway station and Ooty as important and final destination on the mountain journey comes up with big operation rooms and passenger hub. But Lovedale is a passing railway station and only local people seems to board on and off and sometime tourist get down and take some snaps while the train halt for few minutes there. I actually thought the entire Nilgiri mountain railway (runs for 46 km) has turned into diesel locomotive but what I really don’t know was the stream engines are in continuous operation between Mettupalayam and Coonoor and only further upstream to Ooty (18km) is operated on diesel.

The train entered the station at 1.50 pm and moved exactly after 2 minutes halt and the train was fully loaded with passengers. As I was excited taking photos on the emerging/halted train, the passengers were curious watching me, taking photos from the wheelchair. When the train enters the platform the station guard exchange the rings (which looked like a wireless tennis bat) with the driver, which I Google to know is a “railway signalling process and the ring is a token, a locomotive driver is required to have or see before entering onto a particular section of single track”. In the picture above u could see the guards ready to exchange the rings, but the driver dropped the ring on the platform and took the ring from the station guard and it’s perhaps due to the speed.

As soon the train moved out of the station, the guard went up a small platform on the opposite side and changed the track gear. In short time it started to drizzle and the entire ambiance turn wonderful and much lovely and I really enjoyed the moment from the station porch, where I found couple of house sparrows making way through the portico. Though I hesitate to look into the station master room, through the open door I able to capture the token instrument placed on the table along an old telephone. The Nilgiri mountain railway began its construction in 1886 completed in 1908 with the building of track between Coonoor and Ooty, where Lovedale is interlinked.

The old token instrument and dial phone, the wooden ticket counter in booking room & hanging clock from the porch roof of the railway station.

Pancha Pandava Hill Cave, Vilapakkam

Click all pics for enlargement

Following Delhi Gate, our next halt was at Pancha Pandava Hill Cave and Rock Sculptures at a small town called Vilapakkam, about 6 km travel on state highway 129 from Arcot towards Kannamangalam. About 25 km from Vellore, the hilly area was a flourishing Jain centre between 9^th and 11^th centuries which is evident from the inscriptions and Jain figures found on the caves here.

The name Pancha Pandava Hill is associated with Pandavas from Mahabharath, although the hill is locally called as Tiruppanmalai meaning scared milk hill. The rock cut cave temple is a large excavation, carved on the eastern side of the huge hillock. We couldn’t get close to the rock cut cave due to the development work and pavement building, but my mom managed to capture few shots on the face of cave from a distance.

There's a Jaina tirthankara figure on the top of the rock face (click pic) to see him seated in yogasana. And it suggest how strong the Jaina influenced this part of  Vellore

Built in Pallava style, the cave has a large mukhamandapa or hall supported by twelve pillars in two rows, but in picture above only the front pillars is visible. The pillars are uniformly square from top to bottom and have curved corbels above the pillars and pilasters, which is another style mostly seen in Mahendra caves. Except seven niches carved on the back wall of the cave is empty cells with square uncarved blocks as side walls.

A beautiful lily pond next to the rock cave 

Situated right beside the road, the hill and cave is hard to miss and the site is protected by fence on roadside with two small gate entrances. Apart the cave, there’s a natural cavern atop the hill which is converted into a tarn by the construction of a retaining wall and rest is turned into mosque that seem to attract local people for worship.  The staircase to the mosque is carved on rocks and at some places arranged with rocks.

The white building on  the left image is the mosque, shot from the rear side of the hill and rock cut stairs on  left images.

The rock cave and sculptures is protected by archaeological survey of India. And the development process right now hopes to attract more people to the site and make access easily, which perhaps get me closer if checked later.

Linking this post for  Good Fences by Gosia

Delhi Gate, Arcot

I wanted to check some places around Vellore and was planning from December to do the same but for some reasons it kept postponed. Finally on Sunday we made a trip.  Vellore is usually known for hot weather, due of the rocky terrain and hills surrounding the city, I don’t want to be burned visiting it rather than in winter or rainy (beginning from Oct to Jan) though the summer haven’t  kick started yet, we could feel the hot enough.

Our first stop was at Delhi Gate, near Arcot on the bank of river Palar. Delhi Gate is part of the fortification of Arcot, a region that has been battle ground for number of times, which result in construction of the fortress around Arcot. There were prolonged disputes between different dynasties fighting for the control of Arcot, also inspired the British and the French, however their battle was only for control of south India, the battle fought by the British using handful troops and Indian solders under the leadership of Robert Clive (to capture the Arcot) was claimed to be a remarkable battle in Indian history.

The side view of the delhi gate and the stairs lead to the room atop gate, shot from road

What’s really amazing about this battle was, Robet Clive, a clerk, who did not have any military experience and along with 8 inexperienced officers, won the battle against enormous forces using the strategies rather than his strength. The Siege of Arcot lasted fifty days beginning from Sep. 23, 1751 CE become a turning point in his life and later rise to become the Governor General of India. And he laid the foundation of the British Empire in India and ruled most of the country as the governor general.

You could see the inside of the arched gate, with a storeroom gate and boying playing cricket. Click the image to see the fortified ruins behind the fielding boys. 

Now, except the Delhi Gate, a gateway structure with a room atop and some ruined fortified walls and basement shattered around, there isn’t a trace for fort, or perhaps some other ruined parts may visible around the Arcot. The fort originally built by Mughal governor, Daud Khan Panni, in early 18^th century was destroyed by Tippu Sultan in 1783. And one of the remaining gates of the fort, called Delhi Gate, was named after to signify the beginning of the capture of Delhi by the British and the room atop the ached gate was the room of Robert Clive.

It was about 11 am when reached the Delhi Gate, but I didn’t get into the fort, which was fenced on the road side and have huge steps to climb in out. During the time of visit many youngsters were playing cricket between the gate and ruined fort walls, against the warning board place by the ASI   instructing that misusing the monument shall be punishable with imprisonment.   The Delhi gate has two storerooms inside the archway and two staircases, from outside leads to the room atop the gate. Locals believe there’s a tunnel from here goes up to Delhi and thus named after it, but it’s unproven.

We support Jallikattu

It’s a dream come true for me! Yes, it’s a dream come true to see our youngsters leading a grand protest against the ban on our traditional sport, Jallikattu, the bull catching  festival celebrated during the Pongal festival. People generally have a thought that youngsters are useless and careless about anything but the revolution broke today, supporting our traditional sport and rights transformed the perception, indeed. Nothing survives without struggle and here’s a voluntary movement, for not a political reason but to sustain our identity and strengthen the chord of Tamils that was tightening by the cord from the centre govt. and neighbourhood states. First time a protest (statewide Tamil Nadu) without the involvement of any political party or cine personalities! Hats off guys, I am quite with you all.

The Supreme Court has banned Jallikattu following the case filed by Peta, a foreign based animal rights organization, which reasons to ill-treating bulls. For every eye that watches the Jallikattu might think of it but the reality was the bulls are worshipped here and treated like their very own kid. Coming from a family that based on milk business and rearing cows, I know how they are treated and many a time my grandparents have skipped their meals but never cows hunger. And also haven’t attended many functions only because they have to take care of them. At villages things used to be more fine towards the wellness of cattle’s and bulls, and Jallikattu is a way of celebrating   bravery and exhibit of bovine strength. The trained bull catchers try to control them for less than a minute mostly and let free.

I don’t find any logic for the Peta to ask for a ban. They never know what’s happening behind the traditional form of Jallikattu and by banning the sports they are trying to destroy our country breeds rather protect them. No one is intend to harm animal’s esp. bulls here but one thing for certain was behind every existence there’s hard work and struggle to protect. Jallikattu is a cultural identity of Tamils and is in existence for more than 4000 years… how could we allow someone, who has any knowledge or sense about our history and tradition to seek  ban. Our bulls are one of the strongest breeds and the ban will support the destruction of our strength. Bulls are hardworking animals and if we haven’t let them play and treated in right manner, it will become weaker. Experts believe that a bull with full vigour breeds strong bovines and for that these animals must be active and endure. So protesting is the only way of protecting our rights, identity and manner of living...  

#WeSupporeJallikattu #wewantjallikattu 

Grandeur of Big Chola Temple

It was a dream come true for me visiting the Big Temple of Thanjavur in year 2010 – the millennium year of its built, by Raja Raja Cholan 1. The sight of the magnificent temple tower is quite remarkable which proclaims one of the significant identities of Tamils to the universe. Standing beneath the marvelous Vimanam (the main temple tower) and known to be tallest among south Indian temples, it feel spellbind and I quite admired the structure in true amazement thinking about the narratives of history describing the building process of the temple. Each and every direction of the building exhibits the scholars of the Cholas and their thoughts, art and culture to be brought into a structure.

The Big Temple also known as Brihadeeswara Temple is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site "Great Living Chola Temples". The Vimanam (temple tower) is 216 feet high and is among the tallest of its kind in the world and the Kalasha (apex or the bulbous structure on the top) of the temple is carved out of a single stone and it weighs around 80 tons. 

A visit to Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary

I visited the Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary, about 80km from Chennai, on Friday. And this was the first outing with my grandmother after grandfather passed away in December. I have been to Vedanthangal more than couple of times but only this time I find (or went on seeing) a huge arrival of birds, and most of them were Painted Stork and Little Cormorants followed by moderate numbers of Grey pelican, Back-headed ibis, Little and Great egrets and Spoonbill.

A scenic  view across the bird sanctuary,  shot by my brother from the  watch tower

Vedanthangal is the oldest lake bird sanctuary in the country and the steps to develop it into a bird sanctuary has started as early as 1798 when the British government realized the ornithological importance of the region. The small lakes dotted this area acts as feeding grounds for the birds, so it was attracted by variety of birds. Vedanthangal, meaning hamlet of the hunter, got its name from the act of hunting of birds by the local landlord in the early 18^th century.

Painted Storks on a withered bamboo shrub

Though the Vedanthangal Lake was declared as bird sanctuary in 1972, it has a unique history where the local populace provide protection to the sanctuary for centuries. The locals realized that the birds dropping falling into the lake create an effect (liquid guano), and when the water is used to irrigate crop fields it yield greatly and saves the fertilizers cost.  And due this the locals protect the sanctuary and thus it attracts around 40,000 birds every season, with an area of only 30 ha.

Proving that, the other side of the lake (pic above) was flourished in a golden/green meadow of paddy field! While being fascinated by the birds that decorate the number of trees stood inside the lake, the vast paddy fields on the opposite confront its scenic beauty upon growing sunset was stunning. The paddy fields with little/great egrets foraging is always a beautiful sight and one could not miss such views during a visit to Vedanthangal.

Painted storks, juveniles, standing on their nests

We had been to Vedanthangal in the evening unlike my previous visits in afternoon; I was amazed at the number of birds. But when the evening started to immerse, as sun continue to keep down its effect, many flock of birds resume to the lake after foraging in surrounding lakes. When we arrived the noise of birds weren’t louder unlike it gets darker and it seems it’s the nesting season for Painted Storks, as we saw many juvenile birds of same standing all-over the nests.

A  group of spot-billed pelicans, little cormorants and  egrets occupies the trees

Birds migrate to Vedanthangal mostly in winter season (between October-March), but this time due to the torrential rains in December there’s enough water in the lake for the birds to extend their stay. Right now, it is estimated to be about 15,000 birds at the sanctuary. Apart the plenty of painted storks, little cormorants and grey pelicans, I tried to observe variety of birds but was amused to find spoonbills, openbills, a grebes and night heron, only at home when checking the photos!

The watch tower that used to have a telescope, but it seems to be miss this time. The neat pavement along  the lake.

Although we brought a binocular, it was little painful to watch through the pair of lenses but I loved the close view somehow. Vedanthangal has a pretty neat and flat pavement along the lake bank allowed me covering the entire stretch in my wheelchair. There are couple of watch towers and view points along the footpath to observe birds and I find more interesting shooting birds this time.  At the end of day, we were left with a magnificent sunset with flock of birds flew in foreground.

I took number of photos and it’s impossible to post all at a time… so decided to make many posts out of it and more details on birds. 

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A Glance on Kolli Hills

Mountains have been my favorite places of travel and I have covered almost hill-stations and mountain ranges in Tamil Nadu, but I haven’t posted anything so far about the Kolli Hills, situated about 50 km from Namakkal in south India. I had a bittersweet experience visiting this pristine and peaceful mountain range of Easter Ghats, but it wasn’t the reason for me to keep away from this destination in blog. Sheer laziness could be the ground for the delay because the album of Kolli hills were stored in DVD and I really want to revisit the place once again through blog posts and only now I got to execute the resolution.

A welcome arch at the foothills of Kolli Hills 

At a height of 1370 meters, Kolli Hills still (I guess) breathe fresh in absence of tourists thronging unlike other hill-station in south India. During my visit to this mountain region (in late 2010), the place was under development to gain the status of a hill-station but I think the things haven’t settled yet fully to derive many tourist. I hear there isn’t a moderate restaurant/hotel yet and accommodations other than few resorts and government cottages/hostel lack people staying over there. I read from few reviews on the place complains sanitation has been an issue still. I hope authorities take care of it in providing basic amenities to attract more tourists who could make a day trip to the mountains.

Mist covered mountains of Kolli Hills

I have covered almost places in Kolli Hills, which trace back its history to Sangam period (a period in the history of ancient southern India) and are featured in several works of classical Tamil literatures such as Silappathigaram, Manimekalai, Purananuru and Ainkurnura. The region was ruled by a mountaineer and the most popular and celebrated archer and the King Valvil Ori around 200 AD. Valvil Ori is regarded as one of the greatest archers the country has ever seen and he’s said to have pierced an elephant, tiger, deer and a boar and monitor lizard in a single stroke with arrow. He’s also praised as one the seven great philanthropists of Sangam period and his valor and marksmanship are sung by several poets.

The statue of Valvil Ori

Honouring the generosity and skillfulness in archery (what Valvil means) of the King Ori, a statue of him was erected in the headquarters of the Kolli Hills, Semmedu, in year 1975. The govt. organize annual tourism festival named after him and conduct archery competitions remarking his skill in handling the bow. The district administration has built a nice park around the statue and fences for protect. The mountains of Kolli Hills are evergreen forest and being not commercialised yet, the mountains retain its nature except the plains atop that are converted into farmlands. Important farm products cultivated here are coffee, jackfruit, pineapple, black pepper and other spices.

Lovely step paddy field atop the mountains

Kolli Hills are encompassed by number of tribal villages and most of them are involved in farming and rice and other minor millets form the staple food of them. The jackfruits grow on these mountains are well known for its distinct flavor and the many streams spring around make scenic waterfalls. The most famous and the most visited place by tourist, the Agaya Gangai waterfall is situated in Kolli hills. The waterfall flow from a height of 300 feet is at a depth of 1500 steps down a valley. The Arappaleeswarar temple near the fall’s entrance is a pilgrimage site and the Shiva temple here is said to have been built in 1^st or 2^nd century by Valvil Ori.

The other places of interest in Kolli hills are Seekuparai and Selur Nadu view points and apart the Masila Falls and couple of other mini water falls, the development of botanical garden and boat house is an additional attraction to people. The Ettukkai Amman temple is another noted site in Kolli Hills, the name which derived from Kollipavai, a guardian deity of the mountains which was also called as Ettukkai Amman.

More to come later…

Tribute to Aachi Manorama

There are certain things happen unexpectedly and Aachi Manorama’s lose was such and she is a greatest Indian legendary actress and senior artist where no one in this word would have achieved like her. She’s the only actress in the world to be acted in more than 1500 films and 5,000 stage plays! I was thinking about Manorama’s contribution to Tamil cinema lately and was feeling grieve that no one took notice about her and truly wished that someone take a grand function for her when she was alive; commemorating her appearance in almost Indian languages and character that nothing left behind.  An amazement rise up every time thinking about her and I always think, apart being an actress she’s someone very special and no Indian actress would have received such recognition and withstood for a period of long time or more than 60 years in film industry.

pic courtesy: google

I think it is her base that kept her existed for record breaking years in film industry – the drama or theatre performances she continue to do beside her acting in movies.  As a mainstream comedian and character artist, she had done milestone performance in number of movies and in emotional and mother characters there was a time no one couldn’t defeat her or no films made without her.  There are number of films I admired her acting, but I haven’t been familiar with movies of her in earlier stage. Samsaram athu Minsaram, Paati Sollai Thattathea, Chinna Thambi, Chinna Gounder, Nadigan, Guru Sishyan, Kizakku Vaasal, Pangali, Thillana Mohanambal, Aboorva Sagotharangal, Savaal are some of her many films I enjoyed her role. Not only acting, she’s a wonderful singer and has sung about 300 songs and all her songs are super hit and her vocal is something distinct and standouts.

Though I feel there’s something absence in recognizing her presence while she alive, the crowd that gathered for her final procession towards the funeral is not everyone celebrates. In a decade, not a celebrity or artist gathered such crowd (after Sivaji’s demise in 2001) and almost Tamil cinema had paid their homage to her at her premises. The actress had acted with 5 Chief Ministers and her association with Chief Minister Jayalaitha, in cinema, is too close and her personal homage to her is quite appropriate and an honour that entitle everything. Though being an epic chairperson in acting her association with actors and public always seems to be simplest and her record doesn’t showcased anywhere and she lived a life that everyone will appreciate and adherence. She’s a role model to all actors’ esp. who wants to long stand in film industry and for an actor he/she should be ready to take any role rather doing only hero and heroine. Manorama has broken this practice and had done what she itself wouldn’t have expected. Until cinema/theatre is there, she will be alive in memories and film and digital rolls. 

San Thome Basilica, Chennai

Today, while Chennai (the late Madras) celebrates its 376^th Birthday, the number marks the foundation of the city on the establishment of Fort St. George on a small piece of land in 1639 by the British East Indian Company. Every year we celebrate this day as Madras Day/Week marked by various events, and walk on the memorial lanes of Madras. I thought it was appropriate to write on one of the remarkable landmark of Chennai, the San Thome Basilica – also known as Santhome Church.

The front view of the Steeple

Standing tall against the Chennai skyline in backdrop of blue sky and Bay of Bengal behind, the San Thome Basilica Cathedral (on Santhome High Rd) is indeed an imposing structure. Built in the Gothic style of architecture the spire raises to a height of about 155 feet. This Basilica Cathedral is one of thee Basilicas built over the tombs of apostles of Jesus Christ. The other two are the Basilica of St. Peter, built over the tomb of St. Peter in Rome and the Cathedral of Santiago de Compoostela of St. James in Spain.

A zoom on the middle spires

According to tradition it is believed that St. Thomas came to India in the year 52 A.D and then travelled to Madras after worked along the west coast. As he suffered martyrdom at St. Thomas Mount, his disciples buried him in Santhome over which the present Cathedral stands. Marco Polo, during his visit to India, records that “it is in this province (Malabbar) which is styled the greater India at the gulf between Ceylon and the mainland that the body of Messer St. Thomas lies at a certain town having no great population and it’s a place not very accessible”. When Portuguese arrived at Mylapore in 1517, they were surprised to find a shrine there but to be in ruins almost, they took it upon themselves to rebuild the church and parish in 1524.

View of the Steeple from the side

But over the centuries, this small church becomes fragile and was in dire need of repair. In 1893, this structure was demolished and the present church was built with the tomb of the saint placed at the heart of the structure. The predominant feature of a Gothic structure is its tall spires and at the Santhome Bascilica Cathedal it is the first spire that strikes immediately. The second and the shorter one are constructed directly about the tomb of the saint – which could be accessed from the outside of the church rather being within then and it was in 1956 that the church was declared a minor Basilica. The church also holds a museum inside and all the memorabilia of St. Thomas and of that period was arranged along the display of the spear that killed the saint!

ps. all these photos were shot on different times while waiting at the santhome signal.

Fence around Fern House

The picturesque house surrounded by colorful flowers

The Fern House in the Ooty Botanical Garden is home to many ferns and orchids. This house (established in 1894) is dedicated to W.C. Mc. Ivor, in whose response the Garden has been developed to this stage from the then a patch of vegetable garden and wilderness of Shola and shrubs and the lower part as a swamp traversed by deep ravines.

Mr. Ivor who had his training at the Royal Botanical Gardens, was able to transform the steep slopes into walks and terraces, lawns and flower beds for growing choice selection of plants. He also improvised ways and means by which he could reclaim the lower part of the garden and converted into undulating and sloping lawns with pockets of ponds left at convenient places to add chart to the landscape.

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National Fossil Wood Park, Thiruvakkarai

A couple of weeks back I had been to Pondicherry to attend a friend’s wedding and this is the first time I am attended a function out of my relatives (close) circle and been to a wedding after long back, I also got to relish on the wedding dishes. The bridegroom is a friend of mine from childhood and our fathers being best friends, whom worked and retired from the same govt. service, it’s obvious how we become friends. Though we aren’t in communication much in older days, the internet has changed the pattern later to become close, I decided to not to miss his special occasion.  

(click each pic for enlarge)

I already had a plan back then to visit the Petrified Wood Park (National FossilWood Park) at Tiruvakkarai on the sideline of attending the wedding, but I wasn't sure until everyone agreed to give company to the geological park located about 25 km west of Pondicherry, in the Villupuram District of Tamil Nadu. It can also either be reached from Villupuram or Tindivanam at about 28-30 kms respectably; the Fossil Wood Park settles on a sandstone mounds little bit outer from the Tiruvakkarai village on the bank of Sangarabarani River.

From the time I read about this place long back in Hindu Metro Plus, I wanted to be there.  Thanks to the GPS Navigation, there isn't any difficult for me finding route to the place and the road was also good enough except for few hundred meters close to the site being unpaved. When we visited, there were very few people in the park, but a van full of tourist unloaded as we suppose to leave the   park. It’s really wonderful being there, even though it was a hot midday it doesn't bother much in front of woods displayed in rock formation which was truly amazing to think about.  

The Fossil Wood Park is maintained by the Geological Survey of India and over an area of about 247 acres; there are 200 fossilized trees ranging from 3-15 meters in length and up to 5 meters in width. But only a small portion of the sandstone mounds is open to the public, where they displayed the fossil woods as partially buried and strewn all over the area. A small ramp built along the mound takes us little bit around the park that contains petrified wood fossils, which is a special type of fossilized remains, where the organic matters are replaced with minerals (mostly silicate) while retaining the original structures, pattern and shades of the tree trunks.

I think the information board (picture above) provide enough details about the park, but still for those who couldn't get to read: “Geologists call this (Mio-Pliocene Sedimentary Rocks) as “Cuddalore Sandstone Formations”. About 20 million years ago, these tree trunks are believed to carry by rivers and deposited in the water bodies along with sediments. In the absence of roots, barks and branches it make certain that these tree trunks are transported to the present location and fossilized.

European naturalist M. Sonnertet was the first to document the existence of fossilized wood from here in 1781. These fossil trees belong to both gymnosperms and angiosperms are seed producers at open and closed state. It is likely that modern plant families have also flourished here, but some of the trunks resemble the modern Tamarinds species. Fossilized trees are very rare and occur only in some parts of the world. Silently these fossil woods tell us the earth's history. By protecting them we are saving the pages of earth's history. Geological survey of India, the custodian of National Geological Monuments, is protecting these rare occurrences of Fossil Wood since 1957.”

FYI: A piece of fossil truck displayed at Ooty Botanical Garden and Children’s Park in Chennai where also brought from here.