Changes I noticed in Kodaikanal

In the last three and a half years since my visit to Kodaikanal, things weren't that different, but there were changes that I couldn't say were for the better or worse. While staying at my uncle's woodhouse, I went around Kodaikanal for a day and showed various sites to my sister-in-law, who was only visiting for the second time; she couldn't recall all the places and thus enjoyed visiting. I looked around and saw no significant changes, but the increase in roadside shops and new development disappoints me because it either limits the views or destroys a spot of greenery. 

Uncle's woodhouse premises also lacks showiness or appear faded because of continuous exposure to sunshine and rain, but it does not bring down the charm due to proper maintenance. I haven't been there in three and a half years; expecting the same is impossible. The surrounding area had been purged of trees, providing some beautiful views. 

As expected, the weather was damn cold, and we somehow managed with room heaters at night; the days were pleasant with sunlight. Usually, we visit Kodaikanal from March to July, but this is the first time to a hill station in the winter season, and it didn't allow me to enjoy it very much. Because of the freezing temperatures at night, the grasses on the roadside appear withered and brownish rather than green. Birds' tweets were also less audible; perhaps the migration has not yet occurred.

People come to Kodaikanal for its pleasant cool weather, beautiful views of nature, and refreshment and relaxation, but what one can see these days are the shops; not one or two, but rows of shops from one end to the other of the tourist spots with just a little entrance.

(A bend was full of shops that have a valley view once.)

Pillar Rock, for example, is a natural marvel of rock formation rising above the valley like three pillars that could be enjoyed from the road and a traveling car. But now rows of shops had blocked the view, and as if that weren't enough, the forest department had constructed a wall to create a selfie point with an artificial artwork background. However, due to strong public opposition, they demolished the wall; nevertheless, when I arrived, I noticed that the wall had not been completely destroyed and still blocked the view. Since it is under the jurisdiction of the forest department, they aim to gain money by obstructing, and thus tourists would buy tickets to see the rock by passing through the narrow gate between the walls and shops. 

(The Pillar Rock before the commercial shops interrupting the view from 2009.)

Nature has gifted us with these marvels and beauties to admire, and no one has the right to obstruct the views; as a tourist destination, commercial activities are hard to prevent, but regulating them in a way that does not interfere with the sights may be sufficient.

The neighborhood of my uncle's cottage had witnessed some changes: two houses next to the cottage had turned into concrete homes, and a new little grocery and chicken stalls had appeared less than 100 feet from the premises, making it easier for the staff of the cottage to cook and serve the guests.  A new innovative dining space has been created beneath the woodhouse for the convenience of the visitors, along with a new campfire pit was among the modifications I observed on the trip after a long time. 

(The beautiful, clean, and most popular Kodaikanal Lake)

In Kodaikanal, I see the municipality raising the lake's bank by increasing the height of the platforms laid around the lake road to prevent the Kodaikanal lake from overflowing in some locations. Like the harvesting machine, the municipality also uses a device to clean the weeds from the lake, and it moves in the water like a harvesting machine on land, and I should say the lake looks better now. 

The lake cleaning machine, a screenshot from youtube

Albatross Elaichi Luxury Suite, Yelagiri

Trip to Yelagiri, Day 1 Arrival, follows:

Although the check-in time was noon, we arrived at the Albatross Elaichi Luxury Suite in  Yelagiri at about 4 p.m. We ordered tea as soon as we arrived, and it was a welcome break from the journey and a way to digest the late meal we had eaten before climbing the hill. 

I love their trendy villa sign.

The Albatross is a beautiful and comfortable place to stay in Yelagiri. They offer luxury villa suites at a reasonable price! There are many accommodation options available at Yelagiri, and our preference was an individual cottage away from the center of tourist attractions as we wanted a calm stay. 

There were fewer cottages in Yelagiri that met our expectations (accessible in a wheelchair and elevated no more than a step or two) at a reasonable price. While there are resorts and hotels with easy access, our budget and expectations differ, so we choose the one that makes us feel the most at ease. 

From the front gate, a GoPro shot of the villa in super-wide mode. 

We saw the Albatross villa suites first on Airbnb and subsequently obtained their phone number from their website. The owner was kind enough to respond to our inquiries and send us images of the property, which we promptly reserved. The property has a modest lawn in front and backyard but is beautifully maintained; each suite has a flower bed outside, and I loved the hibiscus and roses that bloomed to add charm to the villa. 

The beautiful front yard and driveway, as well as me. 

I liked everything about this place that looks simple, clean, and welcoming. 

Each suite has a living room and a bedroom with an attached bathroom; both the rooms have a queen-size bed, plus a television, couch, and dining table in the hall. They also offer free wifi, which we didn't bother to check as we use our mobile data, and a/c in the bedroom. 

Bright winter sunset at Yelagiri

Being a late winter season, the weather in Yelagiri became cold after sunset, just as the day had begun for us in Chennai with fog. I can feel the cold, which is half the temperature of Kodaikanal or similar to Thandikudi, where we visit (and stay at my uncle's woodhouse) regularly until 2019. 

We had no plans for that day because I wasn't sure about other places (accessible by wheelchair) besides the lake and nature park that I had seen on my previous visit. I wasn't interested in seeing those places again, and I had no plans for the trip other than to see what unfolded along the way. 

Another specialty of staying at the villa is the delicious food cooked and served by their chef, Manikandan. They gave us complimentary breakfast for the two days we stayed there, and for the first-day dinner, we ordered dosa and uthappam. As a side dish, he gave chutney sambar and chicken gravy. Though it was very spicy, it treated the taste buds. 

Night, we slept in the living room bed while my brother, sister-in-law, and nephew slept in the bedroom. Although the night was quiet, we got to listen to various bird sounds at dawn and dusk because the property is just across from Yelagiri Bird Park. I couldn't get to the bird park even if I stayed directly across the street since the surface was not suitable for wheelchair access. 

Albatross is an excellent place to stay, especially for families. They don't allow bachelors, and you can't drink or smoke, so I recommend it. The rooms are simply decorated with wall stickers and painted frames to cheer us up during our stay. The gated villa offers car parking on the premises, and it feels secure with CCTV. The staff who are staying next door are on-call round the clock. 

RGB Monday

Colorful bicycles for the ride...

There's nothing like riding a bicycle, the best part of the activity around the beautiful lake of Kodaikanal. Though I never enjoyed such a moment, I sensed it from my many visits. Regardless of age, everyone enjoys their ride.

Furthermore, in this regard, check my former post on Kodaikanal lake and travel.

Kodaikanal Lake and Travel

Kodaikanal has been one of my favorite places ever since I visited in 1999. I had no idea how the place would look like other than learning it was a hill station like Ooty, the only other place I have visited then - two years earlier before visiting Kodaikanal. Since 2012 I have been visiting the Princess of Hill station yearly except in 2014, and my last trip was in 2019 so, it's obvious I haven't been there in the last two years.

Kodaikanal lake on a cold evening.

I really miss the place. Thanks to covid 19. Either we go to other places or not, we don't miss going to Kodaikanal, especially after my uncle established his Woodhouse and cottages in the lower hills of Kodaikanal. And needless to say, Kodaikanal has become like a second home for us, since next to our home, the longer we stay outside was only at Kodaikanal. The weather there has become familiar or adapted to us to visit any time of the year except the monsoon time where we could not explore any places due to rain and cold. 

A beautiful private boathouse along the Kodaikanal Lake.

A couple enjoying their boat ride in the lake. Glad motorboats are not allowed in the lake to keep it clean.

I have driven to many parts of the Kodaikanal, but yet there are many places to explore, and some are road-less traveled. I'm so curious to visit Kodaikanal, and other places too, and some never traveled before, when the situation becomes favorable. But the thought of Kodaikanal and travel, in general, keeps haunting me and inspires me to write more about them.

The road that goes around the Kodaikanal Lake for about 6kms

Cycling is one of the favorite activities for anyone who visits the Kodai lake, and you see some guys enjoying their ride around the lake. This is a candid shot I captured from inside the car.

There wasn't a trip to Kodaikanal complete without coming around the Kodaikanal Lake - the most favorite place in Kodaikanal. Taking a drive around the lake is a favorite pastime for me whenever I visit   Kodaikanal, and I also love spending time on the lake sipping on hot tea. The star-shaped lake is one of a beautiful artificial lake converted from a natural marshland, and it still retains its original despite the lack of cleanliness. Hope you like the lake photos I posted here.

Lake in thick mist and rain during a monsoon day in July

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RGB Monday

 

While the farmers were busy washing, and packing carrots in sacks (what you saw in my previous post here) I found this little temple peacefully located adjacent to the activity of farmers, adding quiet to the afternoon.  Leaving back others at  Kukkal lake bank, where we picnicked last year July during vacationing at my uncle’s woodhouse near Kodaikanal, my cousin and I drove down the road from the lake just to see what lies beneath and was pleased to spot this temple in a fresh coat of paint. Google maps mark this as Amman (goddess) temple and I get no details other than that. But I guess it's a popular temple among the village people from an image I saw in google where people throng in average numbers. 

Washing and Packing of Carrots

 

Apart from tourism and cold weather, Kodaikanal is popular for vegetables that grow in mountains esp. Carrot is produced at large, along with the medicinal hill garlic which is an important cultivation in Kodaikanal upper villages of Poombarai, Mannavanur, Polur, Kukkal and Vilpatti. An important thing about the Kodaikanal Hill Garlic was it was granted by the prestigious ‘Geographical Indication’ (GI) tag – a name or sign used on products which corresponds to a specific geographical location or origin.

Going past the Kodaikanal town on the observatory road would take one to one of the beautiful mountain village called Poombarai at about 20 km from the town and Kukkal is another peaceful and pleasant village of the mountains about 10 km from there is where these photos of Carrots were shot.  What you see here is farmers washing carrots near a small canal that flows from Kukkal Lake above Kukkal village and stuffing them in sacks before taking them to markets in mini trucks.

Carrots don't look pretty when uprooted from the muddy soil because the condition of the soil - deep loose loamy - is left in a state of dirt that does stick to the carrot  and it's only after hard washing reveals its bright color. The carrot grows above the elevation of 1500 meters and is cultivated yearlong with assured irrigation unlike the land below the range (of 1500) that rely only on monsoon rain. Kodaikanal upper villages are located around 2000 meters, experiencing cool weather throughout the year and I enjoy taking drives around the scenic landscapes of terrace farming and forest.

TELC Jubilee Church (aka German Church), Kodaikanal

Every time I decide to travel, even if the destination was same, I do some research for any new places to see because I think only if there’s a search for something a travel would be interesting.  And old is something always fascinate me and top my list of places to see, more than anything newly constructed. If you’re a follower of my blog, would know Kodaikanal is a beautiful place where I had yearly vacation in last several years and have covered overall places, but still my search of places haven’t end or doesn’t seem to. And one such place I visited in recent times was the century old TELC Jubilee Church.

Kodaikanal has many historic places esp. churches that are more than 100 years old, built during British regime and TELC (Tamil Evangelical Lutheran Church) is a cute little church with unique architecture that really made me wonder have I seen anything similar in construction. It has a cylindrical bell tower to capture our attendance at glance and constructed in granite stones, the church still looks amazing in its original structure and features. As it located on a small hill mound, one need to climb the rock stairs to reach the door front, opening a small wooden gate at the entrance what resisted me further going up close to church.

We visited the church in evening after going through another historical church (which I would write about later) and the weather was pleasant with mild sunshine as we went in search of the church. It took us sometime to find the church as many unknown about it when enquired at the locality and Google maps did wrong locating as well; the church hide away like a treasure in a patch of woods cover above the upper lake road in Pambarpuram area of Kodaikanal. My parents, grandma and bro went up to the church, to capture some photos on my behalf and they were invited by someone in charge, took them around and explained about the church.

Dad, mom and grandma posed in front of church

The church was founded in 1906, by the Germans and the Swedes who emigrated over a century ago in Pambarpuram area of Kodaikanal and the church practiced worship in four languages: German, Swedish, English and Tamil, from the following year. In 1919, the Tamil congregation of different German, Danish, and Swedish Lutheran missions joined together to form the Tamil Evangelical Lutheran Church (TELC). And following the independence of India, in 1947, the Germans and the Swedes agreed to the self-administer of the church by Tamil people and later on to till date the worship is conducted in Tamil by designated priest.  

What I think special about the church was its architecture of German and Sweden, though I have any idea of its architectural style, its unchanged look of ancient beholds. The church still holds the sacred objects leftover by the Germans and the bell outside the church is also a German established in year 1923, and the name of the church is engraved on the bell in Tamil. The sound of bell is heard up to 2 km in radius. I find the entire atmosphere of the church is quiet and being evening, the birds’ noise was pleasant as natural prayers.  TELC Jubilee Church is a different aspect of Kodaikanal, from the regular tourist places, but I hope the future won’t be the same.

Family Vacation 2019 Ups and Down!

Don’t know why the vacation wasn’t exciting or to say there was something missed feeling throughout the stay but travel wise I enjoyed the trip and spending time in lap of mountains in company of birds and trees. It’s always a pleasure to stay at Smokey Haven, my uncle’s woodhouse and cottages at Thandikudi near Kodaikanal, where we spent our days with extended families from July 8 to 13. Since the inauguration of the resort in 2015, I continue to visit it at least once a year and I’m happy and thanks to my uncle for executing a project alike i.e. building a woodhouse in the vicinity of coffee estate and tall big trees helps me staying and enjoy an environment full of nature rich.  Anytime there would be a bird chirping outside but this time I felt a bit lesser sound of the birds and spotting birds has reduced too what I perhaps guess was migration! I know there are some little birds that migrate from Himalayas and it was the environment that console me lot as I felt down sometime.

Smokey  Haven Woodhouse and Cottages we stayed

Though we waked up early and began the journey, the most part of traveling (490km) went under scorching weather until climbing up the hill. Our car couldn’t produce enough cooling to the cabin, though we serviced the car before traveling it quite went out of gas when we switched on the AC on the return journey. We travelled in two cars and our 9 seater was occupied by 5 of us with boot space quite went for wheelchair, commode and luggage and the uncle’s Innova had other five since my uncle’s family was ahead of us in another car. Though we travelled together they speed up always leaving us far behind as we drive on moderate speed to help me balanced.  While traveling at two different speeds doesn’t bother me much unlike how it continues at the vacation period as well.  My uncle had built an additional woodhouse at their vicinity at a ground below the already exists, were all others stayed and we 5 including the grandmother stayed at the old woodhouse. It wasn’t the old or new mattered, but none came above to spare time with us and it felt like we came alone like how we travel last time to the same place.

Dad standing in front of Thandikudi village (beneath), picture shot from Balamurgan Temple come viewpoint

I was irritated lot to sit alone always, even though nature gives me company I felt lonely when all my dear ones were around not sharing. I haven’t felt this before while travelled as five and I would sit ideal watching birds and taking photos as it was my choice and nature of traveling, but as a family vacation mind thoughts about being together, sharing and having fun rather think about anything. I love exploring places and traveling but love double folds the family vacation or group traveling at least once a year to keep cherished throughout. As soon we come into the range of Thandikudi we all lost our Airtel network signal and I actually thought that it could be a mild fault in connecting, but the disappointment came hearing that Airtel network has stopped working there due to fall of tower! I know I haven’t gone there for networking and it didn’t bother me actually, instead only made feel happy that none will be looking into the smartphones so there would be more chances for sharing face-to-face but my cousins had another network to still connect and also hopping on and off in jeep. 

A moment together with family at the woodhouse deep inside woods

Though we expected rain in the mountains, as monsoon already began, the first two days restricted us to woodhouse and we got to the Balamurugan temple one morning and then to another woodhouse my uncle had built on behalf his friend and one day spent driving to Kodaikanal and Kookal Lake/Village. We hear people complaining of no rain until we got there and it was obvious wherever we visited except in Kodaikanal where the lake was at its brim! The Kookal Lake was muddy with water at the bottom where only water hens were walking in and out. The weather was much colder in Kodaikanal, even though clouds form as if it going to rain it didn’t happen until we move to the woodhouse. One night we spent at my uncle’s friend woodhouse (which my uncle built on behalf his friend) in a place called Vel Farms, a place deep inside the woods and remote from much activity. Overall I had good time despite the lack of sharing and feeling alone while being together as well, it was refreshing and relieving to travel after more than a year and I could cherish this for some time until I pick up another trip. 

A part of beautiful star shaped Kodaikanal Lake at its full level, in the eventide light with reflection of trees.

More details and photos will follow in further posts.

Check Post – 3

Here’s part 3 on the series on Check Post where I would like to share moments related to check posts that I have come across during my travel. Today’s post is on Berijam.

A welcome arch by nature through forest, shot during a visit in 2009

It was in 2006, we ventured into the Berijam forest near Kodaikanal and it was my cousins’ inspired me not to miss this place when I visited Kodaikanal for 2^nd time and it was many time already for them. I hear them saying that leopards/tigers visit Berijam Lake to quench thirst and bison are common sighting the way want me to visit and experience adventure. Berijam is a pristine lake area located inside the dense forest and visiting it needs prior permission from district forest office (DFO) at Kodaikanal. A warden who arranged accommodation for us at Kodai, at that time, did help obtain permission to visit Berijam where only 20 vehicles is allowed per day to preserve the natural environment and wild.

We reached Kodai a day early to my aunt’s family join us on the trip in their car and we in cab SUV, but we got permit only for our cab car and we already 9 members on-board, received my aunt and two little cousins for a drive of about 30 km from Kodai. We doubt really will they allow our overloaded vehicle at the check post, but glad they didn’t check our vehicle and only dad get down to sign at the check post and we drove through one of the best preserved wild environment  of flora and fauna. The entire area is a biodiversity and unpolluted earth and it’s a complete pleasure and refresher to venture and its advised not  to get down anywhere other than the specified spots.

Berijam lake in 2006

Same view in 2017 -  no changes in shape and view on Lake

There’s another check post at the Lake area, where vehicles are stopped and parked aside the road and to check the place only by walk, but they allowed our car to drop me close to lake to get down to the wheelchair. I used manual wheelchair then and we spent some time on the lake bank, and taking photos it slowly started to drizzle and furthered showered rushed people to their cars, since there isn’t a place for shelter there. My wheelchair was pushed speedily by my brother to prevent getting soaked and in the force a front caster of the wheelchair came out and I was pushed further in tilt position till the car.  Berijam is a freshwater swamp lake and people are allowed only at defined space and to and fro through the car, our eyes were spotting for any wild animals.

Me at Berijam Lake in manual wheelchair aside dad and cousin in 2006

I have visited Berijam couple of times after that and there isn’t much changes on the place for good and each visit was a different experience for me and lately the forest department itself  running an ecotourism trip to Berijam and the number of private vehicles allowed has also been increased is certainly a disturbance to the ecosystem there. Berijam Lake is 9 km in circumference and located at 2165 MSL and it is also considered as one of biggest freshwater lakes in Asia. During my second visit I encountered Sambar deer, Langur and Giant Malabar Squirrel but beyond that the presence of nature and calmness wants me to go their how many times possible.

Front and Back

Here’s couple of candid shots on a horse ride around the Kodaikanal Lake road. It was the same horse, horseman and rider on both images that I just shot from the parked car, beside the lake, as they rode front and back. Kodaikanal Lake is one of my favourite places and just observing things happening around is a great time pass and entertainment as well. And horse riding is a part of the tourist activities take place around the lake road, apart cycling, where cycles are rented on hour’s basis.

Linking this post with SATURDAY CRITTERS

RGB Monday

Colorful Street Shopping

I didn’t shop anything there and this is a scene outside the Bryant Park in Kodaikanal and these shops sell mostly t-shits, sweaters, handbags and hats. The road along the Kodaikanal lake has many shops alike selling colorful things to attract tourist. 

Have a nice week ahead 

Fence and Flowers – Pinto Premium White to Rose

During my visit to Kodaikanal, staying from uncle’s woodhouse in Thandikudi, in July, I come across some fence and pretty flowers around the star shaped Kodaikanal Lake. Spending time on the Kodai lake/road in evenings have been my favourite pastime whenever I was in Kodai, and sipping hot tea/coffee from the roadside shop while embracing the cold mountain weather produce a soothe feeling. There’s something always to watch out being around the lake, either people pedalling boats or riding horses or cycling around the lake and reflection of trees, colourful shops and fences and gates of houses around the lake road. And here’s a fence around a corner of the lake road, with pretty flowers bloomed from inside. My Google search revealed the bunch of pink flowers bloomed inside the fence was Pinto Premium White to Rose Geranium.

Pinto Premium White to Rose offers a unique coloration of giant 5-inch flower heads, with petals start out white turn deepen to rose-pink as flowers mature gives an pretty bicolour effect. The plants sport deep green leaves with darker zones that contrast beautifully with the light colored flowers.

Pinto Premium is a great choice for carefree, colourful summer garden beds or patio containers, bloom from the end of April until October. It prefers full to partial sun and regular deadheading for best appearance and flower production. 

Linking this post for  Good Fences by Gosia and Floral  Friday Foto 

A brief on my vacation

I’m back from the vacation two days before and it was indeed a wonderful trip/time except for couple of my cousins and aunt/uncle who couldn’t make up to the vacation. We spent 8 nights at my uncle’s woodhouse/cottage in the Kodai hills or half-kodai, what Thandikudi is called and it is one of the longest vacations I had in my life apart staying at our close relative’s house during school days. Unlike last year we planned this trip earlier due to one of my cousin’s college reopening but at last they postponed the opening, so we went along our family 3 days before my uncle/aunt (who owns the cottages) arrives.

A new woodhouse being build up by the uncle at the Serene Woods

As usual this time too (staying from my uncle’s woodhouse/cottages, the Serene Woods) I got to explore and experience some new place and routes to keep it interesting. By this travel I have covered all motor accessible roads to Kodaikanal, though it was a link road for about 35-40km, I felt  awesome taking  this road that take me through some pristine falls sight and  environment that many unaware about. I’m someone always look forward for something new and different even if the destinations were same to make my travel interesting. I explored couple of mountain villages taking a road less travelled, with scenic mountains and fascinating houses to view.

Winding though woods and forest

During my stay I visited the Berijam Lake, in the wildest part of Kodaikanal, after a gap of 8 years. I have been to the placid lake area couple of time in the past and I truly love the enriched natural environment of flora and fauna. We went through really a tough experience obtaining permission to visit the lake as it was in a protected area, though there wasn’t trouble in getting permission but we were a bit careless to become exhausted. Other day I was on my favourite road (Dindigul to Kumily) to visit a scenic village on the foot hills of Bodi aka Bodinayakanur and it was a popular shooting spot where the Tamil movies Kumki and Myna has been shot.

One of the scenic roads i traveled

I always prefer for a relaxed travel and plan according to it because I couldn’t over strain myself and I can’t check various places at a time. Thanks my uncle for building a woodhouse/cottage on the lap of mountains bestows me with abundance chances of exploring various places around the Kodaikanal, Dindigul and Theni regions. The woodhouse and cottages named as Serene Woods, is a fabulous place to stay and relax and enjoy nature at bay. Amid the woods I truly enjoyed having breakfast listening to the sound of birds unlike watching TV at home. It was blissful spending time with cousins at my favourite environment of woods and visiting places around. 

More on the vacation and travel later… 

RGB Monday

Today’s post will have something more colorful, connecting two peace loving countries. Yes, I see the relationship between the Tibet and India exhibit through these photos and how well they coordinate to do their business.

Below is an image carrying colorful flags above a row of Tibetan shops on the Kodaikanal Lake road.

The shops that sells woolen clothes seems to have a fixed rate for their products, forming a Tibetan welfare association they work in a way of supporting  each other. You could see a name board placed above the shop, thanking India for supporting the Tibetan causes with the images of the fathers of both the nations.

Above is another set of shops from the same array, bearing the board of their association and being a hill station most of their products are woolen blankets and scarfs to keep the nights warm and comfort.